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This thesis is a survey of a rarely studied field of international relations. It is interested in the role of women’s sartorial fashion within the Franco-American postwar relations between 1946 and 1960. The analysis takes on the French perspective through the prism of the public authorities and diplomatic bodies, Parisian couturiers, and textile manufacturers. This orientation highlights the two fields on which these actors wish to see manifest an influence of fashion in the United States, namely commercial and prestige propaganda. In their perspective, these two forms of propaganda can be implemented either through indirect actions (press coverage of their fashion shows) or direct actions (shows organized to promote specific products or French production as a whole). The analysis is then completed by integrating the perspective of American fashion professionals (specialized press, manufacturers and retailers) and that of the American diplomatic bodies in France, and the study of customs statistics in order to evaluate, from the viewpoint of these historical actors, the degree of success of fashion as an instrument of French influence in the United States in regard of the initial French expectations. The research question answered by this thesis is: How important is fashion as an instrument of French influence in the United States after the Second World War? In order to answer it, the analyses procedes in three steps. On the one hand, the intersection of the historical contexts of fashion and Franco-American relations highlights the importance of the advent of the American superpower. This requires the French to adapt in terms of their production methods and their relationship to the American perspective of liberal and democratic modernity. On the other hand, the research was based on a chronological approach distinguishing between the 1946-51 and 1952-60 periods. The first one precedes the state intervention in favor of the Parisian couturiers and the second one is dominated by the state-sponsored Aid to Parisian couture. The thesis shows that the commercial influence of Parisian fashion in the United States did not materialize contrary to the couturiers’ claims and to the textile industrialists’ expectations. However, with respect to its influence through prestige propaganda, the situation is quite different. Long regarded as an ersatz to the commercial purpose of propaganda by the state – with the exception of the French diplomatic bodies that particularly appreciate its prestige purpose –, from 1957, France’s “rayonnement” through the dissemination of fashion ideas becomes key to French leaders. From then on, its role is to take advantage of the craving for Parisian fashion ideas to ensure a French presence – beyond fashion – in the American market: a mass market otherwise difficult to penetrate, being the largest in the world.
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The European project, through each of its milestones, outlines a new type of entity on the international scene, one which is a stranger to the nation state without being its better. From the intensification of European integration emerged a questioning on the nature of the interactions between national and European identity. In this respect, France represents a very interesting field of study as the country organised two referendums on European integration, one in 1992 and the other in 2005. The main goal of this research is to reveal the way in which the construction of a national discourse within the French public opinion is influenced by the deepening of European integration. The analysis covers both debate periods before the 1992 and 2005 referendums dealing with the ratification of the Maastricht Treaty on the Euro and the Treaty establishing a Constitution for Europe. This work is based on a press analysis covering both periods of debate. In order to study the evolution of the French perception of their national identity with the least political bias possible, this thesis relies on documentary resources comprising editorials and letters to the editor of four newspapers: Le Monde, Le Figaro, L’Humanité and Libération. The comparison of the identity discourses of 1992 and 2005 reveals that the relation of identification between France and Europe has drastically changed during this period. It went from a relation founded on alterity to a relation founded on shared values. In 1992, the French use the European idea as an identity referent around which they reaffirm the “frenchness” of their shared values. In 2005, the French national identity is not in question anymore. From now on, the debate turns around the values the French hope to see at the root of the European identity to which they are called to adhere. These values are henceforth drawn from the personal identity of each Frenchman rather than from an encompassing concept of the French national identity.
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Années
- 2010-2019 (2)